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1. The Lodge of Fusaro is
another architectural delight built by Charles
and Ferdinand.
It is located in the area called “the
Acherusia Marsh” in ancient times and
believed to be the seat of the Infernals.
In 1752 King Charles bought the Fusaro and created,
just in the middle of the lake, on a natural
granitic layer, an “octagonal lodge”.
Ferdinand IV in 1782 tasked Architect Charles
Vanvitelli, son of Louis, with the design and
realisation of a hunting residence, the Royal
Lodge of Fusaro.
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a view of the Lodge |
Six “basements” destined to host the royal
stable and an “inn for the guests spending there
their leisure time” were built; the ancient mouth
of Torre Gaveta was restored and, most of all, the farming
of oysters, of which the King was very fond (he even
enjoyed himself in selling the fish and oysters of the
Fusaro) , was increased.
On the bank of the lake, “several edifices were
built, one called Baraccone, including a huge canopy
supported by arches and pillars to shelter boats and
fishing tools belonging to the Royal family”;
another called Cassone, to keep “fish alive for
selling”.

the elegant chandelier in the entrance hall |
And therefore the once guardian house became
the “Royal Lodge” in the middle
of the Fusaro area.
Only subsequently would the wooden pier be built,
whereas the “Little Oyster (Ostrichina),
i.e. the villa on the bank, designed by the
Royal Architect Antonio De Simone and inaugurated
in 1825, had also a wide area for the stationing
of the royal carriages.
Many important events and distinguished guests
inhabited it. For instance, on 15 May 1819 King
Ferdinand gave a lunch in honour of the Austrian
Emperor Francis II at the Fusaro. But if from
an architectural point of view this monument
is linked to the prestigious name of Charles
Vanvitelli, from a decorative point of view
it refers to one of the most important landscape
painters of the 18th century: Philipp Jacob
Hackert.
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This structure is formed by two
storeys superimposed but not similar. The lower one
is wider due to two ambulatories located at the sides
of frontal arches, one north and one south. Between
these two rooms and the central hall there are two
semicircular rooms one north and one south used respectively
as corridor and staircase room. These areas were transformed
into kitchens, staff lodgings, storeroom and, later
on, offices. Presently, from October 2001, the ambulatories
have been transformed into “gallery of distinguished
guests”.
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Entering these rooms one
can feel the incredible sensation of being suspended
over the water of a lake; moreover, it is possible
to read the biographies and reasons of link
with the prestigious people who have marked
the European history for more than two centuries
and who were guests at the Royal Site of the
Fusaro. The whole Bourbon dynasty, the Tzar
of Russia Nicholas I, the Prince of Metternich,
Francis I Emperor of Austria, Joseph II of Hapsburg-Lorraine,
Sir William Hamilton, and Gioacchino Rossini
and Wolfang Amadeus Mozart, just to mention
a few.
Vanvitelli and Hackert, through their creative
talent, did even more. The main floor had a
marvelous floor whose background colour was
a pastel blue with floral decorations and multiform
yellow decorations.
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another view of the Lodge |
The ceiling was finely frescoed
with hunting, fishing and natural scenes. The walls
were covered by what Hackert himself - while addressing
J.W, Goethe - defined as the best work made for the
Neapolitan Court: the cycle of the four seasons. The
artist thought of alternating each season with the
panorama that is possible to see from the wide windows.
In fact, the life-size paintings covering the whole
wall presented the horizon landscape as coinciding
exactly with the natural horizon of the lake without
any break. A complete fusion between his masterpieces
and those generously distributed by nature around
the lake. A summary of all the places Ferdinand IV
loved most.

detail of a fresco |
Unfortunately, Hackert’s masterpieces
disappeared during the Neapolitan Revolution
of January 1799. The original floor was removed
after the second world war.
The less striking yet brilliant work was the
roof, supported by a complex system of beams
and trusses that guaranteed great weather-proof,
but also great resistence against the volcanic
nature of the Campi Flegrei plain.
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A panorama of exceptional beauty
can be admired from the Lodge and, in particular,
the sunset is a unique sight that has enraptured and
still enrapture with unchanged intensity powerful
people, artists and commoners.
In bright days, the image of the Lodge reflected on
the calm and crystal-clear waters of the lake as in
a mirror is highly suggestive, as it is the view of
real fish colonies drawing strange geometrical figures
while making extraordinary somersaults among the cliffs,
or the view of the “rocchi”, the rocks
ordered by King Ferdinand IV and piled up in a sort
of basin, on which the fagots with the oysters were
laid so that oysters could not be in contact with
the mud, now scattered like craters around the little
island.
This place has been many times defined as an enchanted
place, an architectural jewel on crystal-clear and
silent waters. Maurice Coste, sent by the French government
to study the oyster farming of Fusaro, said it was
a miracle “to be repeated in France, too”.
This place is a jewel admired by geniuses such as
Mozart and Goethe. |